The Dance of the Black Horses: The Legendary Fiestas de Sant Joan in Ciutadella, Menorca

While the rest of Spain welcomes midsummer with beachside bonfires, the historic town of Ciutadella de Menorca celebrates the Fiestas de Sant Joan with a medieval display of horsemanship. Spanning the night of June 23rd through June 24th, this deep-rooted island celebration transforms the narrow cobblestone corridors and grand stone plazas of Menorca’s old capital into a high-octane stadium for more than 200 majestic, purebred Minorcan horses.

Unlike many commercialized Spanish festivals, Sant Joan is fiercely local, highly ritualistic, and strictly governed by rules that date back to the 14th century. If you are standing in the middle of the crowd this week, here is the breakdown of how the magic unfolds.

1. The Medieval Social Hierarchy of the Qualcada

The core of the festival is the Qualcada (the horse cavalcade). The riders, known as Caixers, are not professional stunt performers; they are local citizens chosen to represent the historical classes of medieval Menorca. The riders must assemble in an exact hierarchical order:

• El Caixer Senyor: A nobleman representing the old aristocracy, who acts as the symbolic leader of the fiesta.
• El Caixer Capellà: The chaplain, representing the clergy, who oversees the religious blessings.
• Els Caixers Pagesos: Two local farmers—one representing the rural north (Tramontana) and one from the south (Migjorn).
• El Caixer Casat & El Caixer Fadrí: Representing the working guilds—one married artisan and one bachelor who carries the official festival flag.

The entire event officially sparks to life at 14:00 on June 23rd with the Primer Toc de Fabiol—the very first melancholic notes played on a tiny traditional flute and drum, which signals the Caixers to begin mounting their horses.

2. The Heart-Stopping Chaos of the Caragol des Born

Around 17:00 on June 23rd, the focal point shifts to the sweeping, open stone expanse of the Plaça des Born.

  [Riders enter Plaça des Born]
                │
                ▼
  [Crowd parts to create a path]
                │
                ▼
┌───────────────────────────────────────────────┐
│     The Caragol: 3 Full Galloping Laps        │
│  Horses rear up onto hind legs to music       │
└───────────────────────────────────────────────┘

The mass of thousands of spectators parts down the center, creating a tight path for the horses. Led by the Caixer Senyor, the riders enter the square at a full gallop for the Caragol des Born, completing three laps around the plaza while a massive live brass band blasts the traditional Jaleo melody.

3. The Climax: The Jaleo and the Art of Rearing

The word Jaleo represents both the specific, energetic folk melody played by the town band and the physical interaction between the public and the horses.

The goal of the Jaleo is spectacular: as a horse moves through the dense crowd, the rider urges the animal to rear up completely on its hind legs, walking or hopping forward dynamically.

Instead of stepping back in fear, the local crowd surges toward the rearing animal. Spectators put their hands directly onto the horse’s chest or flank, helping balance the animal and keeping it standing on two legs for as long as possible. To the untrained eye, it looks like a recipe for catastrophe; in reality, the purebred Minorcan horses are naturally agile, calm under intense pressure, and highly respected by the community.

4. Hospitality and the Magic of Caragol de Santa Clara

Later in the night of the 23rd, and repeating throughout June 24th, the horse procession takes a more intimate turn during the Caragol de Santa Clara.

The Caixers ride their horses directly through the narrow residential alleys of the historic center toward the Santa Clara convent. Along the route, local families open their historic wooden front doors completely wide. The horses are ridden directly inside the entry halls of the stone houses, where the riders are toasted by the inhabitants.

Throughout these two days, the entire town drinks Pomada (or Gin amb Llimonada)—a refreshing, smooth cocktail made by mixing locally distilled Xoriguer Gin with cloudy lemonade.

5. June 24th: Medieval Skill Games at Els Jocs des Pla

On the evening of June 24th, the festival migrates down to the natural port area for Els Jocs des Pla (The Games of the Plain). Here, the medieval origin of the fiesta is most visible, as the riders participate in traditional games of skill at high speeds:

• Ensortilla: A rider gallops at breakneck speed down a tight corridor of people, aiming a long wooden lance to spear a tiny metal ring hanging from a string.
• Ses Carotes: Two riders gallop side-by-side; one holds a hand-painted wooden shield (carota) while the other attempts to smash it using a wooden bat, while the crowd scrambles to collect the broken pieces as lucky souvenirs.

Safety Guidelines for First-Time Spectators:

• Maintain Distance First: If you are nervous around large animals, do not enter the center of the plazas. Watch the Jaleo from a raised stone step or a safe distance down an alley.
• Never Approach from Behind: If you want to participate in supporting a horse during a Jaleo, always approach from the front or side, keeping your hands flat on the horse’s chest. Never stand directly behind a horse’s hind legs.
• Hydrate Mindfully: The summer heat coupled with the high alcohol content of Pomada can sneak up on you. Balance your drinks with plenty of water.